"Madame," said the ferryman, kissing my hand in the old Romanian custom as i boarded his flat-bottomed skift for passage to the underworld of Vlad Tepes' tomb on Snagov Island.
The inspiration for Dracula, Vlad the Impaler, is actually buried on this little island outside of Bucharest.
I was met on the other side by a woman with a lantern (yes, a lantern) who toured me around the complex and then showed me the cracked and open sepulcher where Vlad was said to rest (or not rest, as the case may be).
It was getting late. Cranes were calling in the marshes. I imagined Christopher Lee or Gary Oldman rising from the shadows and inviting me to join him in a dark eternity of never ending night and passion beyond the flesh.